Saturday, March 5, 2011

Vogue circa 1923

After asking the assistant at the library desk where I could find the periodicals I went searching. The vastness of libraries have always intimidated me. It seems as though I'll never find what I'm looking for. Thank goodness for librarians and there knack for organization. I found the bound periodicals down in the quiet basement. Since I am getting a degree in Fashion Merchandising I figured exploring the pages of Vogue would be the most interesting to me. I found the Jan-Jun 1923 book of Vogues. The book was so heavy and awkwardly large but I'm glad I took the effort to get it off the shelf.
Since my birthday is February 3rd I looked at the February 1st issue. When vogue first began publication it was published on the 1st and 15th of each month. What struck me first and foremost about the issue was the language used in the advertising. The new spring fashions were "flatteringly lovely," and one particular sportswear design was the "smartest sport silhouette" of the season. There were a lot of references to France and French words as well. This is due to the fact that in the 1920s France was looked upon (as still is ) as the fashion capital of the world. The publishers of Vogue looked to Europe for all of their inspiration and knowledge about fashion. Some of the phrases in the magazine including, "mode of the moment," and "the fickle beau monde," are obviously phrases centered around French words. The entire issue was filled with French influences.
The advertisements were selling goods that most people don't have the need for anymore. In the 1920s a majority of Americans were still making and constructing their own clothes. Therefore, a lot of the advertisements were for items such as bias tape, collars, safety pins, elastic and snap fasteners. An advertisement for these notions could now be found in specialty sewing and crafting magazines but certainly not in Vogue.
Another interesting thing about this Vogue was the lack of photographs. Illustrations were still being used the majority of the time during the 1920s. Instead of magazines having a signature photographer, they had signature illustrators. The illustrations were very detailed and offered the reader a good idea of what the fashions for spring would entail. All of the illustrations had descriptions next to them, describing color, fabric, and use of the garment. The illustrations and the photographs in the magazine were all in black and white.
One of the articles I read caught my attention because it was about a great change that had occured in society. I guess that this "great change" would have something to do with society or some of the aspects of the century that we have talked about in class. After reading the first paragraph I realized that my guess was far off. The article went as follows, "After the end of the New York season-a great change has taken place in society- a change that is very near a revolution. Entertaining is unquestionably more informal, and entertainment more amusing." Not really what I was expecting.
Overall I enjoyed flipping through the pages of fashion's most influential magazine. I am interested to see what Vogue looked like later in the century, during the 60s, 80s, and the year of my birth, 1991. I'll be looking through some of those books I'm sure in my years to come as a fashion merchandising major!

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